I don’t think you need to be in a relationship (or even dating) to appreciate the romance of Amsterdam. You can go on a date with the city all by yourself.
Romantic restaurants in Amsterdam: from dinner date to high tea
When I posted about Sinne on Instagram, one follower described it as “understated romance”. I couldn’t agree more. It’s one of those restaurants that’s been around forever (and has had a Michelin star for a while too) but for some reason it took me a long time to get there. When I finally did, I opted for five courses with paired wines, of which the first two were my favourites: BBQ leek with marinated seaweed and ponzu caviar was zingy, smoky and citrusy. Meanwhile, sepia and chorizo came roasted with courgette, black olives, yoghurt and sauce of smoky grilled peppers – a nod to the Middle East. You can’t visit Sinne without trying their signature egg/celeriac/truffle dish – it’s highly accomplished, albeit the black truffle was a little potent for my anti-mushroom palate. However, I have heard that truffle is an aphrodisiac…
Troef
Walking into Troef, we were shaken by the hand and were immediately on first name terms with the maître d’. The service continued to be beyond friendly, while the interior glowed with a warm, romantic atmosphere that was part ski chalet, part French bistro, part Dutch café. The food was casual but creative: the signature dish appeared to be the Giethoorn eel with crispy potatoes and a horseradish foam. We were sitting at the bar, and must’ve seen hundreds of these paling towers being prepped in the kitchen in front of us. It was salty, sweet and mildly fiery from the horseradish, and went perfectly with a glass of German Pinot Blanc. We stuck with the fishy theme, continuing with a velouté of clams, mussels, crayfish and sea lavender, with a hint of spice from ‘nduja. I also loved the lobster with an antiboise of baby artichokes, cherry tomatoes, creamy bisque and zesty orange. Be sure to ask for a peek inside Troef’s wine cellar as well – it’s an oenophile’s dream.
Belhamel
Restaurant Belhamel is one of those places that’s truly stood the test of time (it’s been run by its current owners since 1998) but I’d lived in Amsterdam for 13 years before I finally made it there for the first time. Now, having witnessed its art-deco charm, canal views, romantic ambiance, and of course its classic but excellent French-led food, that seems somewhat unforgivable. During my lunchtime visit, I tried Belhamel’s scallop and jumbo shrimps with puff pastry (think vol au vent, but less 80s) and beurre blanc. Pair it with a glass of oaky Chardonnay and you’re in classic date night territory. Be sure to try their signature white chocolate cheesecake with raspberry coulis, too.
Editor’s note: I was invited to eat at Belhamel as part of a press trip, which meant I didn’t pay for my meal. Obviously I try to be as objective as possible, but I always disclose when I’ve had a freebie.
Watergang
Occupying arguably one of the most romantic little canal houses in Amsterdam, restaurant Watergang makes efficient use of its diminutive space. We were sat tucked up on the mezzanine level, overlooking the rest of the restaurant below (perimenopausal women be warned: this can get warm). There’s no menu: just five fixed courses, plus wine pairings if you like, although dietary restrictions seem to be easy to accommodate (within reason). I thought all of them were very accomplished, and the wine pairings were absolutely spot on. But my favourites were the salmon tartare with a herby beurre blanc, and the pork belly with mussels and a Thai coconut milk broth. The latter paired perfectly with the aptly named “Par Amour” white wine: an Auxerrois (lesser known grape that does well in cool climates) from a French region I’d never heard of: Champlitte. It was mineral and delicate but with a juicy full body that really offset the spice and sweet savouriness of the dish. This charmingly rickety, candlelit restaurant is definitely one to keep in the back pocket for a special date!
Romantic restaurants in Amsterdam for casual date nights
Koevoet
Much like Watergang, Koevoet is housed in a building that looks like it hasn’t changed in a couple of hundred years. The dark wood and old-fashioned charm make it a no-brainer for a romantic date. And while the décor may imply a Dutch brown café (better known for beer and bitterballen), Koevoet is in fact an Italian restaurant. They serve delicious burrata, ravioli, carbonara (made with real guanciale!) and much more.
Bistrot des Alpes
When the long Dutch winter comes around, one of the few solaces of knowing I’m going to be wearing a coat for the next six months is the thought of Bistrot des Alpes’ Savoie-style comfort food that transports you straight to a cosy ski lodge. Think raclette, fondue, tartiflette, charcuterie, and as many calories as you can shake a ski pole at. Don’t forget to take a selfie with your significant other in the ski lift that’s sitting in the middle of the restaurant!
Café ‘t Papeneiland
When Mr Foodie came over from Louisiana to visit me for the first time (this was long before he became Mr Foodie), I took him to Café ‘t Papeneiland for our first proper date. The building is pure Amsterdam romance: charmingly ancient, on the corner of two of the city’s prettiest canals, where the lights reflecting in the water twinkle night after night. I’m not sure if this really counts as a restaurant, as I’ve only ever eaten apple pie (during the daytime) and ossenworst (in the evening). But for pure atmospheric effect, Papeneiland makes the romantic cut.
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Romantic hotels in Amsterdam for high tea
Waldorf Astoria Hotel
Afternoon tea at the Waldorf Astoria feels like a romantic escape into old-world elegance, with views over the hotel’s tranquil garden. Unsurprisingly, Peacock Alley (where afternoon tea is served) is suitably grand: think bronze chandeliers and sweeping curtains. But it also has a sense of fun: the staff are friendly, not obsequious, and their afternoon tea is themed every year. A few of my favourites on the savoury side included posh hot dogs and decadent gingerbread “horses” filled with a cream of foie gras. In the sweet department, the mini bundt cake topped with pineapple and mango was a standout in terms of flavour, while the “toffee apple” stole the surprise prize for its cake-pop appearance and popping candy filling. As for the tea, the Waldorf’s “China Supreme Rose” tea was miraculous: when I began to eat the savoury elements of the afternoon tea, it turned spicy. Then, as I worked my way over to the sweet side of the dishes, the tea became floral. I even asked the restaurant manager if it was all the same tea. It was – and I ended up drinking about six cups of the stuff. Caffeine buzz aside, Peacock Alley at the Waldorf Astoria is the kind of place where it’s easy to relax and feel very taken care of.
Editor’s note: As I was invited by the hotel, I didn’t pay for my afternoon tea. But I saw the same food being served to everyone and the same excellent service across the board. I only recommend dining experiences that I would be proud to take my family and friends to. This was one of them.
Amstel Hotel
The Amstel Hotel offers a high tea in Amsterdam that’s as much about the atmosphere as it is the food. Overlooking the Amstel River, the setting is both impressive and relaxing, especially if you’re lucky enough to score a spot by the window or on the terrace. Their high tea has all the essentials: delicate pastries, savoury sandwiches and Brit-approved scones. On the sweet side, we enjoyed pistachio financiers, something like a cross between a caramel doughnut and a Danish pastry, and little gooey butterscotch-topped chocolate sponges. We also had two delicious tartlets filled with frangipane and topped with raspberry and passionfruit mousses respectively. The teas (which I managed to fit in between glasses of Champagne) were extremely high in quality, although all but the jasmine were probably lost on me, not being much of a tea connoisseur. With an ever-changing view of the boats drifting past along the river, high tea at the Amstel Hotel is a quintessentially romantic way to spend an afternoon: a touch of old-school glamour that feels just right for a special occasion or a spontaneous treat.
Romantic wine bars in Amsterdam
Shiraz Jardin des Vins
Perhaps because it’s so close to Amsterdam’s touristy Leidseplein, I had overlooked Shiraz Jardin des Vins until very recently. But that was a mistake on my part, as it’s a gem of a wine bar with comfy lounge chairs and a candlelit atmosphere of romance. I tried two of their bubbles – a Crémant de Luxembourg and a Cava Brut – both of which were high in quality. I also very much enjoyed a portion of crunchy, savoury shrimp croquettes alongside a moreish orange wine from Valencia in southern Spain. Bring an old flame or a new love interest – Shiraz is full of romantic sparkle.
Clos
On perhaps my favourite square in Oost, Beukenplein, you’ll find Clos – a convivial wine bar with a cosy interior and a covered, heated terrace outside (I believe they even provide blankets in winter for extra snuggle-potential). The wines by the glass are arranged to make it easy to select one you’re bound to like, and the staff are extremely helpful with recommendations – including off-menu suggestions. There are plenty of top-notch snacks to nibble while you tipple: think good-quality charcuterie and cheeses, fresh bread with hummus and crostini with rillettes. There are also more substantial main courses and meals if all that romance has worked up an appetite.
