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Footsie with Foodie at De Italiaan

We have Scary French Lady to thank for most elements of this blog post. You may know of Scary French Lady because she leaves comments occasionally, or you might have met her at Hidden Kitchen. She’s effortlessly elegant and a marvellous baker (her almond madeleines are utterly Proustian) and she’s French, of course. Which means that even though she claims not to be a foodie (in fact, she calls me simply ‘Foodie’ to differentiate me from her other friend Vicky), she knows more about food than most Brits of my acquaintance.

Scary French Lady recommended De Italiaan to me soon after we met, and I’ve been meaning to eat there ever since. On Friday, she invited a group of friends for drinks (she is also a social matchmaker), so I decided to stop by the Bosboom Toussaintstraat beforehand with one of our party. Scary French Lady had introduced me to the Moldovan (who looks – and sometimes talks – like a Russian author) back in December, and I’d been promising to take him reviewing ever since he told me he was eating a Domino’s pizza one evening. (Clearly, he needed my help.)

New game: 'Footsie with Foodie'

De Italiaan does contemporary-meets-cosy quite well: I don’t remember too much about the décor, other than that it’s split level and uses a lot of red. I don’t expect the Moldovan remembers much about it either, since his gaze was generally occupied by the clientèle – most of whom were female and as hot as the restaurant’s wood-fired oven. Tables for two are pretty small, which meant we were playing footsie under ours most of the time. This did not seem to bother my dining companion, however, who declared ‘Footsie with Foodie’ to be a new game.

Veal ravioli with sage-pesto cream, rocket and parmesan

We ordered a bottle of the ludicrously punctuated Est! Est!! Est!!! from Foltone, made in the Lazio region of Italy. It was crisp and fresh, but probably not ideal for the veal ravioli with sage and pesto cream that I was eating. The pasta, incidentally, was excellent – fresh and al dente and generously filled. I would have preferred a butter-based sauce, but I am a bit of a purist when it comes to ravioli…

Grilled sea bass with roasted tomatoes

The Moldovan had a whole grilled sea bass on a pile of rosemary and rocket with roasted tomatoes. We ordered a side salad with it, but with hindsight should’ve asked for some kind of carbs as well (although the bread – which was spiked with sage, I think – dipped in olive oil was a good start). The fish was clearly freshly caught, and the Moldovan made heavy work of de-boning it, vouching for the fact that it hadn’t been cooked a moment too long.

Chocolate and ginger torte

For dessert, we had a chocolate and ginger torte that was moistly textured, deceptively light, subtly prickly and really very good. It came with a dusting of icing sugar and three segments of blood orange – a nod to seasonality – but I’d have happily eaten it naked with coffee. As it were.

Dinner came to under €70 for two, although skipping starters and sharing a dessert meant that we could easily have spent more. Afterwards, we met up with Scary French Lady, who asked me excitedly if I was happy with her recommendation. She beamed when I said I was. You see, she’s not so scary when you get to know her…

all the info

De Italiaan (Italian)
€€

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