These days, in posh restaurants, they like to do things three ways. They also like serving ‘heritage’ vegetables – the so-called forgotten fruits of our ancestors’ labours. You know what I mean: ‘Black salsify: three ways’.
It’s all a bit trendy and pretentious, but then again maybe they have a point: it’s interesting to make the most of the versatility of a vegetable, especially one that doesn’t often get a look-in.
In a restaurant review I read recently, I saw celeriac described as a ‘vintage vegetable’. That has to be even cooler than a heritage vegetable, right? I mean, that’s the food equivalent of a pair of vintage leather boots in comparison to a National Heritage stately home…