When four of my closest friends all announced they were leaving Amsterdam and moving to Stockholm in January 2021, I was pretty devastated. After a year of lockdowns, my friendship circle had already diminished, and this was a major blow. Fortunately, however, there’s been an equally major upside: free accommodation in one of the most expensive cities in Europe! Since then, I’ve spent several days or even weeks each year in Stockholm, catching up with friends and (of course) going out to eat and drink. Yes, the booze is pricey – there’s no getting away from it. But the food is not all that much more expensive than Amsterdam, and overall the quality is extremely good. There’s no denying it: Stockholm has all the ingredients for a dissertation-length foodie guide. Which is why I’ve ended up splitting this into two and updating it several times over the years. This article focuses on central Stockholm, but you can read another post that covers some of the other islands in Stockholm’s archipelago.
Travel to, from and around Stockholm
Before you can explore Stockholm’s restaurants, you’re going to need to get there! At the time of writing, KLM, Scandinavian Airlines, British Airways and Ryanair fly direct to Stockholm, but you can compare times and prices on sites like Skyscanner, Expedia and GoEuro. Stockholm is quite spread out as a city (mostly because it’s a series of islands) but the excellent public transport system – including a network of ferries that hop across the archipelago – makes it easy to navigate. That said, we often took Bolt taxis or scooters to get around more conveniently.
Top Restaurants, Cafés and Bars in Gamla Stan, Norrmalm and Östermalm
Gamla Stan is Stockholm’s old town – a tiny island right in the middle of the city. To the south is Södermalm (covered in the section below) and to the north are the neighbourhoods of Norrmalm and Östermalm. You’ll find that many restaurants have two locations: one on Södermalm and one on Norrmalm/Östermalm.
Fika at Kaffekoppen, Gamla Stan
The most famous Swedish tradition has to be “fika”, which is essentially a convivial coffee break in which to drink coffee (obviously), chat with friends and eat cake. What’s not to like? We took our first fika on the most photographed square in Stockholm: Stortorget in Gamla Stan (the city’s old town). You’ll see it in all the guidebooks, but it’s no less Insta-worthy for being touristy. Kaffekoppen is on the western side of the square, and does a delicious line in specialty coffees (the mochaccino came in a bowl topped with whipped cream and chocolate sauce) and moreish cakes. We tried the rhubarb one, which was slightly like a crumble but firmer, and came with vanilla custard. Probably best to share if you have dinner plans later!
Fika at Kaffekoppen in Stockholm’s old town
Spanish tapas at Bar Nombre, Norrmalm
A thoroughly buzzing, split-level tapas bar in Norrmalm, Bar Nombre has everything you need for a good night out. We ordered a fantastic bottle of Rioja Crianza from Viña Pedrosa and tucked into plate after plate: pan con tomate, giant shrimps on toast with lardo, croquettes filled with a jamón ragù, boards laden with Spanish charcuterie and Manchego… the list went on. The atmosphere feels like a party without being too loud.
Jamón croquettes and Padron peppers at Bar Nombre
Ramen at Ai Ramen Klara, Norrmalm
Ai Ramen has two locations – one on Södermalm and one on Norrmalm – but this time I tried the more northerly of the two. Ai Ramen Klara has a record-store theme to it, as well as a great selection of local beers and natural wines. I tried the Mariestad unfiltered beer on draft and a glass of natural red wine whose details I can no longer remember – both of which were surprisingly good. But it’s the ramen you’re really here for: we were big fans of the spicy miso ramen, which is chicken-based but we added an extra helping of pork belly. I’d advise you to do the same as it’s absolute, melt-in-the-mouth perfection. Oh, and don’t forget to order a side of kimchi.
Spicy miso ramen at Ai Ramen Klara
Asian-Swedish fusion fare at TAK, Norrmalm
Restaurant TAK is housed on the 13th and 14th floors of the Brunkebergstorg, a modern tower near Stockholm’s central station. The main dining room is elegantly designed with gleaming brass fixtures, white panels and stunning views over the city. Upstairs, the outdoor roof terrace comes alive in summer – attracting both visitors and professionals working in the area. The culinary mind behind TAK’s operation is Frida Ronge – a Swedish chef who also has experience in sushi and teppanyaki. And this shows in her menu: think pea guacamole with wonton crisps to start, followed by salmon bowls with kimchi, rice and roasted seasonal veg.
Burgers at Flippin’ Burgers, Norrmalm/Östermalm
With its old-school American diner interior and music, Flippin’ Burgers is as much about the atmosphere as it is about the burgers. But it’s fitting into the trend of catering to vegans and vegetarians, too: all but one of the burgers are available not only with beef patties but also with Beyond Meat patties. Flippin’ Burgers’ meat comes from small-scale local slaughterhouses, Skärgårdskött and Gröna Gårdar, ensuring that the beef is as ethically produced as possible. Bread comes from Magnus Johansson Bakery in Hammarby Sjöstad, while drinks come from small, Stockholm-based suppliers as well. I loved the “Cricket” burger topped with cream cheese, jalapenos and caramelised onions.
The Cricket at Flippin’ Burgers
Natural wines at Tyge & Sessil, Östermalm
Wine bar Tyge & Sessil early on a Friday evening had exactly the vibe we were looking for: casual but buzzy, on-trend but relaxed. We ordered a bottle of Loire Valley rosé, which was fruity and funk-free, alongside some fat green olives and sweet-and-sour pickled gherkins with labneh. A wonderful start to the weekend.
11 of the Best Restaurants and Bars in Södermalm
As you can tell from the list below, I spent much of my time in central Stockholm in the Södermalm neighbourhood. It has an unmistakeable hipster vibe but, in that very Swedish way, it’s also not trying too hard. In between dining stops, there are some great shops to browse – from English bookstores to record shops to clothing and homeware boutiques – and a couple of leafy parks to wander around. So without further beating around the lingonberry bush, here’s what to eat and where to eat it in Södermalm…
Meatballs at Meatballs for the People
Clearly you can’t go to Sweden without gobbling down your fair share of Swedish meatballs. They crop up on many menus around town, but where better to sample a few different varieties than the aptly named Meatballs for the People? I tried the “all in” chef’s choice, which is made up of two meatballs of four different varieties (i.e. eight meatballs in total) plus silky potato purée, creamy veal gravy and tart preserved lingonberries. My favourites were the moose meatballs, closely followed by the pork, but all were excellent. The service was fantastic, too.
Swedish meatballs… brought to you by Meatballs for the People
Local sharing plates at Bar Agrikultur
High on any local foodie’s list is Agrikultur, which is actually in the northern end of Vasastan. It was also fully booked by the time we got our act together, so we visited their sister restaurant – Bar Agrikultur – on Södermalm instead. It’s a small venue with packed-in tables (but a large terrace) and a compact menu of local, seasonal sharing plates. We started with some high-quality charcuterie: think mortadella, coppa and pork rinds. We then moved onto the warm dishes, my favourite of which was courgette with peas, mint and ricotta, garnished with the most deliciously crunchy, garlicky breadcrumbs. The wine selection was also lovely.
Fusion sushi and ceviche at Indio Kitchen
Moving away from the typically Swedish, one of the best discoveries we made was Indio Kitchen – serving up a winning fusion of Peruvian and Japanese flavours. I’m a sucker for a chef’s menu (Get to try everything? No decisions needed? Sign me up!) and since it was our wedding anniversary, we decided to indulge in the “grande” version of the omakase menu. After some lightly spiced miso soup and edamame beans, dinner kicked off with zingy ceviche, umami-tastic tiradito, and decadent lobster rolls. Next came several rounds of sushi, each more elaborate and luxurious than the last. We ordered plenty of booze too, which meant the evening was pretty pricey, but it was definitely worth the price tag. A hidden gem in SoFo.
Stellar sushi at Indio Kitchen
Pat’s Place
Staying in the Asian theme is Pat’s Place: a cosy, convivial little spot turning out humorously named Thai sharing plates. “Spice Girl” is a hot and fragrant take on chicken laab, “Nana in my Heart” is a meltingly tender oxtail dish based on a massaman curry, and “Purple Rain” is a Thai-style aubergine dish. You get the idea. Pat’s Place also serves an interesting line in cocktails: there’s one that’s essentially a margarita with an upturned beer bottle in it – go figure. Service is friendly and prices are very reasonable.
Barobao
Equally delicious but less shareable are the bao buns at Barabao: one would make a perfect mid-afternoon snack while two would do for lunch. We tried the sticky-sweet pork belly bao with hoisin and coriander, the fried chicken slider with mayo and crunchy pickled veg, and the Korean veggie bao. I’m obsessed with kimchi, so I ordered a side of spicy fermented goodness as well. Top marks all round.
Bao buns at Barabao
Chicken all ways at Bird Söder
Just down the road from Indio Kitchen, the aptly named Bird Söder is all about poultry. Chicken comes as wings (either buffalo-style or Sichuan-style), classic buttermilk fried chicken with dill-heavy ranch dressing and hot honey, bang-bang chicken wontons that are a veritable party in your mouth, and Middle Eastern-marinated chicken kebab skewers. All were fantastic. The only thing I didn’t rate was the glass of Cava I drank with dinner, but perhaps it was just one dodgy bottle. While we ate at Bird Söder, there’s also a Bird City in Norrmalm (although I can’t vouch for the kitchen there).
Fried chicken at Bird Söder
Sharing plates and natural wines at PS Matsal
PS Matsal is a combination of wine bar, dining room, greenhouse, event space, cookery classes and photography/film studio. Housed in a spacious, high-ceilinged, airy building in Södermalm, PS Matsal is owned and run by culinary duo Per and Sofia, after whom the restaurant is named. The curated wine list ranges from a light Riesling to a Washington Cabernet Sauvignon whose name – “Wines of Substance” – says it all. PS Matsal’s excellent dinner menu includes roasted cherry tomatoes with yoghurt, hispi cabbage with harissa, and pan-fried fish with a tart sauce of peas and capers – all of which come on sharing plates.
Vegan brunch at Mahalo
Mahalo’s motto is “Vegan is the new black”, which pretty much sums up the concept of this popular lunch and brunch spot. The interior is colourful and fun, with the creative lighting giving the whole place a soft pink glow. The menu is predominantly bowl food – from acai smoothie bowls to savoury falafel bowls. But there are also breakfast staples like American pancakes and baked oats, as well as plant-based burgers and fries.
Falafel bowl at Mahalo
Brannerian
Right next door to its own gin distillery, Brännerian is a softly-lit, pale wood-clad cocktail bar that (naturally) specialises in gin-based cocktails. But don’t think they stop at a negroni or a gin martini. I tried the fascinating Hygge Old Fashioned concocted from fat-washed gin (instead of bourbon) and Jerusalem artichoke spirit – deliciously different. The JP Gimlet, made with dry gin, jalapeno distillate and parsley tincture, was also searingly good. Brännerian is a great option for a pre- or post-dinner drink if you’ve got a reservation at Pat’s Place (see above) as they’re on the same street.
The JP Gimlet at Brännerian
Champagne at Södra Teatern
The Swedes like to go out for bubbles… And if you’re ordering a glass, you might as well split a bottle… And if you’re ordering a bottle, you might as well do it on a view-sweeping roof terrace overlooking the iconic black roofs and spice-coloured architecture of the city centre. That’s what you’ll find at the Champagne Bar on the seventh floor of the Södra Teatern at the northern end of Södermalm. Somehow I manage to justify these things to myself – I’m sure you can find a way…
Dramatic skies from the Champagne bar at Södra Teatern
Cocktails and views at Himlen
If you can’t get enough of the views over Stockholm (and that’s understandable), an impressive spot for a cocktail with a view is Himlen. From the outside, this Grill & Cocktail Bar looks to be in a rather ugly tower block. But once up on the 26th floor, over 100 metres above the hustle and bustle of the main street below, it all makes sense. The cocktails are creative, and the food is decent though not outstanding. A good location to impress a date (or your boss).
