When you think of bars in Tallinn, Estonia’s capital and the northernmost city in the Baltic states, you might think of strong liquor to warm the soul through the cold winters. Or you might think of hand-achingly huge pitchers of local lager with which to celebrate the white nights of summer. And while both of these are true, it was the wine culture in Tallinn that particularly surprised and impressed me.
Estonian wine making
Not only will you find some fantastic wine bars in Tallinn, but Estonia also has its own wine-making culture. When you consider how far north the country lies (Tallinn is at 59 degrees latitude), it’s quite miraculous that wine can be made at all. Unsurprisingly, the grapes grown are all cool climate varieties: Solaris, Rondo and Zilda aren’t well known outside of northern Europe, but they can all tolerate the region’s cold winters and spring frosts.
It’s the fruit wines, though, that make Estonia’s viticulture tradition so unique. Nowhere else have I tasted wines made from rhubarb and gooseberry, quince and apple. And I must admit, I didn’t expect to enjoy them as much as I did. From Tallinn, we took a bus around 45 minutes east to Valgejõe Veinivilla, where we tasted a whole range of Estonian wines – from a sparkling rhubarb-based aperitif to a citrusy Solaris and a juicy Regent (white and black grapes respectively). But it was the yellow plum wine paired with smoked trout, rye bread and garlic butter for lunch that was a particular pleasure. As a day trip from Tallinn, I’d highly recommend visiting Valgejõe if you’re staying in the city for a little longer.
8 of the Best Wine Bars in Tallinn
Back in central Tallinn, there’s plenty to entertain wine lovers as well. Most of these bars specialise in wines from regions that are not in the Baltic states. But every sommelier I spoke to was extremely helpful, so if you are looking to try Estonian wine without venturing out of the city to one of the wineries, I’m sure you’ll be able to come across it in Tallinn if you ask around.
Vixen Vinoteek
We stumbled across Vixen Vinoteek on the first night of our month-long stay in Tallinn’s Old Town, and it quickly became a favourite. Inside, it’s opulent but unpretentious – you can come as you are but you’ll still feel a little luxurious. Wine-wise, Vixen specialises in bottles from Luxembourg and Austria, but plenty of other countries are represented as well. I was blown away by the Crémant de Luxembourg by Alice Hartmann: apple, pear and cream were prominent, but also cocoa beans and burnt matchstick. The 2013 Chinon from the Loire Valley (made from underrated Cabernet Franc) was also an excellent recommendation from the sommelier. A wonderful wine experience all round.
Understated opulence at Vixen Vinoteek
Veino Veinikas
Focusing on natural wine, Veino Veinikas is a colourful little bar that has no wine list but the sommeliers are happy to recommend something you might like based on your preferences. One of which was De Stefani’s “Olmèra” blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Tokaji (Hungary’s signature grape) but then from the Veneto region in Italy. Aged for 16 months in oak, it was like nothing I’d ever tasted: flint and fire met blossom and fresh melon. A fascinating wine that delivered something different on every sip.
Veino: one for the natural wine lovers
Toro Wine Bar
A Spanish wine bar with a heavy pour and excellent tapas-based snacks: what more could you ask for? I was a big fan of Toro’s white blend of 75% Grenache Blanc and 25% Chardonnay, which was tropical, nutty and vanilla-smooth. On the red side of the menu, my favourite was the Carignano, which was silky with dried fruit and baking spices. We hadn’t had dinner, so we also opted for a large board laden with jamon, chorizo, olives, bread and several types of cheese. The truffle cheese with the Carignano was a fiesta in the mouth!
Tapas time at Toro
Pan y Vino
Nestled into a leafy terrace outside a church in Tallinn’s Old Town, Pan y Vino serves a lot more than just bread and wine, but the latter is a good place to start. Again, the list is predominantly Spanish (although they call themselves a Peruvian bar) and fairly small – although there seemed to be other bottles off-menu. We thoroughly enjoyed the Verdejo (white) and Monastrell (red), both from the Jumilla region in southeast Spain, especially when paired with Pan y Vino’s BBQ dishes – grilled al fresco on the terrace.
Vabrik Vinoteek
In the hipster Kalamaja neighbourhood, Vabrik is a cosy wine bar and shop that offers some exceptionally good value bottles. Of the five whites they had open the day I stopped by, I was particularly impressed by the Etna Bianco blend of Carricante and Catarratto, which only set me back €5 a glass. Vabrik also sells plenty of good bottles (to take home) for under €10. Bargain!
Good value whites at Vabrik
R14
A wine bar, shop and restaurant in one, R14 is housed in a converted power plant in the Rotermanni Quarter. The first time we visited, we drank an excellent glass of pink bubbles made from the Sicilian Nero d’Avola grape, but then only lightly pressed to create a sparkling rosé rather than a fruity red. We were hooked, so we went back for a second visit on another occasion. I’m not sure whether the wine list was Italian themed in general, or whether Italy was simply the direction towards which our choices skewed, but we enjoyed all the wines we tried – from the sparkling Franciacorta to the Puglian Primitivo to the Chianti Classico.
Wine bar, shop and restaurant R14
Flamm
Also in the Rotermanni Quarter, very close to R14, you’ll find an industrial yet cosy little bar serving Alsatian flammkuchen and a range of wines (two of my favourite things). You can’t go wrong with a classic flammkuchen, topped with cream cheese, speck and red onions, but don’t be scared to go off-piste either: we loved the “Grüezi” with Swiss cheese, black truffle, rosemary and rocket. Try one of Flamm’s Alsace whites or their Syrah-Grenache blend from the Languedoc if you’re in the mood for a red.
Creative Flammkuchen and Alsace wines at Flamm
Chin Chin
In the modern, up-and-coming Kalaranna Quarter, Chin Chin is a spacious wine bar with an expansive, sunny terrace. It also has one of those blanket-system machines that allows them to sell several wines by the glass without compromising on quality. We tried both the Crémant de Bourgogne and a Chardonnay by Joseph Drouhin, both of which were good quality for their price point. It’s also possible to pick up bottles to take home from Chin Chin’s shop around the side of the bar.
Travel to, and accommodation in, Tallinn, Estonia
Before you can explore Tallinn’s bars, you’re going to need to get there! At the time of writing, airBaltic, LOT Polish Airlines and Ryanair fly direct to Tallinn, but you can compare times and prices on sites like Skyscanner, Expedia and GoEuro. Tallinn city centre is extremely walkable, and the public transport works well, but we also found the Bolt taxis to be very convenient and affordable. The first time I visited Tallinn, I stayed at the Kreutzwald Hotel, which is well located and very good value (you can still get a room for under €100 per night, which is almost unheard of these days). The rooms were clean and comfortable, and the staff very helpful.
Beer Breweries and Cocktail Bars in Tallinn
For those whose tipple of choice is brewed, shaken or stirred, I’ve collated a few additional tips for bars in Tallinn serving beer or cocktails.
Beer House
In the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town, Beer House looks like a German beer hall with its long wooden tables and ginormous handled beer glasses – not to mention the costumes of the waiting staff. But don’t let all that cheesiness put you off because the beer is fantastic. My favourite was the Medovar Honey – an easy-drinking amber ale – soaked up with a few juustupallid (fried cheese balls) and õlleampsud (smoked strips of pork with onion). We went looking for Estonia’s answer to a borrel, and we found it.
Põhjala Brewery & Tap Room
Põhjala is a household name in Estonian beer – you’ll see the brand in shops and on menus all over Tallinn. But for the best tasting experience, head to Põhjala Brewery & Tap Room – housed in a huge location near the coast in Kalamaja. Upstairs, you can order from 24 own-brewed beers on tap, while the kitchen serves a very convincing line in Texan BBQ. It was a hot summer’s evening, so our beer preference went to the refreshing Orange Gose, Sun City and Juicy IPA. But in winter, I have no doubt the dark beers are just as good.
Beer flight at Pohjala Taproom
Botaanik
We only stopped in at cocktail bar Botaanik for one drink, but the old fashioned was so good I think it deserves an honorary mention! It’s right next door to Veino Veinikas (see above) and has a similar vibe.
TOPS
While walking through Kalamaja, we stopped for a late-night drink at TOPS – a quirky bar that would look thoroughly at home in East Berlin. The service was kind of moody, but I think that’s their schtick. The whiskey sour was great, however. (We also tried the local liqueur – Vana Tallinn – not for the faint of heart!)
