Please note that since writing this blog post, Van de Kaart has closed down
For ten days at the end of June, Iens held its so-called “Diner Dagen”, during which various Amsterdam restaurants offered a fixed menu at a reduced price. Having not had great Restaurant Week experiences in recent years, I was sceptical about this new version of what appeared to be basically the same thing. But then I spotted Van de Kaart on the list (which had been on my to-eat list for years) and decided to chance it and make a reservation.
Things got off to a good start when we were offered an aperitif within 30 seconds of walking through the door (I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: they key to being a good host – and a good business person – is getting a drink into someone’s hand as quickly as possible). It was also no problem when we wanted to switch one of the dishes on the fixed menu for one of the à la carte starters, and nor was it a problem to order our mains without mushrooms. Not only was everything possible, it was done with a smile – another key to being a good host and running a successful business.
Van de Kaart’s walls are decorated with an old-fashioned map of France, so it came as no surprise that the food had French leanings. After the amuse of watermelon soup with cucumber foam (which I wasn’t really in the mood for after my recent foam-athon at &samhoud places), the starter was a French fishy joy. Mackerel pâté contrasted with salmon so lightly smoked it tasted almost raw, along with a cool beetroot and radish salad. A balanced dish that met its match in a dry Riesling.
My main absolutely over-delivered on its description. Pepper steak with a cognac sauce turned out to be a perfectly seasoned and sliced piece of beef, buttery white asparagus, potato crisps, carrot and avocado purées, and (in my case) a beef croquette to replace the field mushrooms. It was meaty and rich, while at the same time delicate and laced with peppery spice.
Dessert was a choice between French cheeses and a chocolate-raspberry number. So we ordered both. In the meantime, we’d scored another glass of wine on the house (because the waiter “doesn’t like to see empty glasses” – he is my new best friend) so I don’t really remember much about either except that we polished them both off with greedy enthusiasm. (People with a sweet tooth: I apologise – I always seem to be drunk by the time I get to dessert.)
The bill came to €50 each, which may have been a little more had we not booked via DinerDagen, but not a lot when I looked at the regular priced menu. But the truly, wonderfully, striking thing about Van de Kaart was that – unlike in 90% of Amsterdam restaurants where the staff seem to have a degree in avoiding eye contact – I barely had to move my head in the general direction of the waiter for him telepathically to understand that I wanted to order another glass of wine, or get directions to the loo. The water jug was filled up without my even noticing. It was service of the highest, most old-fashioned quality: so good you barely even noticed it was there.
