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Slow food-street food: Japanese Pancake World

I have – with good reason – a great distrust of any restaurant that displays plastic food outside. As bad first impressions go, it’s right up there with insulting your mother-in-law. It was lucky for Japanese Pancake World, then, that I hadn’t seen the fake pancake outside the restaurant before suggesting we meet for dinner there. Because sometimes, just sometimes, looks can be deceiving…

In a second lucky strike, we ended up sitting at a sort of breakfast bar overlooking the kitchen, rather than in the main part of the venue. This gave us a great view of proceedings, as well as the ear of the chef for the hour or so we were sitting there. The menu, he explained, was split into three different types of pancakes, known collectively by the eminently forgettable polysyllabic “okonomiyaki”: Osaka-style, in which cabbage and various veges are mixed into the batter before being fried; Hiroshima-style, in which a thin pancake is layered up with noodles, cabbage and whatever extras you fancy and topped with a fried egg; and negi-yaki-style, which is the only pancake that doesn’t involve cabbage but spring onions instead. I was about to make a joke about Gangnam-style, but then realised it was Korean. So that would just be silly.

The pancakes, we were told, would take 30 minutes to make, and we ordered the first version (Osaka) with spinach and beef, and the second (Hiroshima) with pork, cheese and sweet corn. While the care and attention that went into the pancakes was clearly worth the 30-minute wait, the result looked like a pimped up version of street food. Which might explain why Japanese pancakes haven’t exactly taken off over here – I hadn’t even heard of them until we discovered JPW (which, incidentally, has been around for ten years), although the chef told us that in Japan they’re as popular as sushi.

And rightly so. What emerged from the giant hot plate were two savoury, hearty, flavoursome packages of calorific goodness, with extra BBQ sauce and mayo just for the hell of it. One of them even came with intriguingly named “dancing fish flakes”. Awesome.

The pancakes themselves were only around €13 each, and our generous hosts gave us a shot of plum wine on the house. JPW may have the worst visual merchandising outside its doors that I’ve ever seen, but if slow food-street food exists, Japanese pancakes are the next big thing.

all the info

Japanese Pancake World (Japanese)
€€

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