Last Sunday (after what was – I’m sure we’re all agreed – a stonking performance by Andy Murray), I dragged myself away from the post-tennis high on the BBC and along to Indian restaurant Surya on the Ceintuurbaan. I was lucky enough to have been invited to dine with the Punjabi owner, Pamma, who has branches in both Amsterdam and Hilversum. In an enthusiastic mixture of English and Dutch (he’s certainly lived here longer than I have), he explained that the restaurant specialises in northern Indian dishes and Nepalese dishes – the latter being lighter and less creamy.
My guest (a fellow Brit and Indian food afficionado) and I tried a range of starters – including grilled meats, pakoras and samosa – all of which were served with a variety of sauces ranging from sweet to hot to minty to cool. Tasty, but fairly predictable.
What really stood out for me, however, were the curries. We sampled six (this being one of the bonuses of being invited by the owner – you’re not limited to the usual two!). The mild korma was nuttier and more refined than many of its over-sweet, creamy cousins. The madras was properly fiery (although that may have had something to do with the bright green whole chilli that I somehow bit down on without realising what it was – hurrah for mouth-cooling yoghurt and cucumber dip!). The vegetarian dishes with paneer were fresh and laden with tomatoes. But my favourite was, without a doubt, the Nepalese gurkha curry – as promised, it was lighter than the rest and prepared using a different blend of herbs and spices that made a refreshing change from the classic Indian cuisine. Next time, I’ll try the momos – a Nepalese speciality that sounded positively nom-able.
While I washed down the dishes with an Indian red wine (more spicy and less grapey than European wines), my curry companion tried a couple of the beers that Pamma said paired well with the heat of the dishes. The menu is strong on its drinks options (that’s if you can find them in the encyclopaedia of a menu) so be sure to ask about cocktails, digestifs and everything in between. I ordered a caipirinha, which tasted like it had been mixed with a piña colada – sweeter than a citrusy caipirinha should be, and with strange coconut notes. Not unpleasant, but not a caipirinha. Afterwards, we tried some smaller-scale artisanal versions of Bailey’s, limoncello and Grand Marnier, all of which we agreed were better than their commercial originals.
We were thoroughly full by this point, but – another tip from the owner! – guests are encouraged to take home whatever they can’t finish in reusable takeaway bags. A plus for food waste levels as well as your wallet.
Surya may be best enjoyed in winter (or indeed during the colder days of summer) as it doesn’t have any outside space, and the décor is low-lit and dark-coloured. But its curries certainly pack a spicy punch, and its Nepalese dishes are warm enough for winter and light enough for summer.
