I have shamelessly stolen the title for this post from a chapter in Ottolenghi’s second book, Plenty. Because the aubergine IS mighty. It takes on every teensy bit of flavour that gets near it. You can fry it, grill it, bake it or steam it. Stuff it, mash it, char it or sear it. But one thing’s for certain: it must not – under any circumstances – be undercooked. Then it turns into a rubbery, spongy, pulpy piece of shoe leather that scars people’s palates for life.
While the aubergine is a master at playing a supporting role, in these two dishes it takes the lead and makes a meal in its own right. The first recipe involves steaming the aubergine in quarters for about 15 minutes, and then dressing large chunks in soy sauce, sesame oil, chilli, coriander, basil, lemon juice, spring onions, and a touch of sweet chilli sauce and brown sugar for sweetness. I served it with some Thai-style noodles.