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January: celebratory karnemelk

On 14th January, 2006, I turned up at Heathrow airport with one suitcase, a small rucksack and a one-way ticket from London to Amsterdam. On arrival, I had no job, no home and just one friend who I still knew from our student days. I still remember the hard grip of fear and opportunity as I sat nursing a cappuccino at Pret in Heathrow. How things came together I’m not quite sure – a pinch of luck and a good dollop of hard work I imagine.

Half a decade later and I wanted to celebrate with the people who have made my life here such an epic adventure. For some reason, I chose karnemelk. What could be more Dutch?

Karnemelk (buttermilk, in English) has to be the most Calvinistic, revolting punishment the Netherlands could inflict on its people. It’s sour, for a start. And thin – like someone watered down some perfectly decent yoghurt. And people actually drink it for lunch – sometimes mixed with orange juice so that it turns into a stomach-churning, curdled, cement mixer of a drink. Five years in this country and I have never seen the appeal.

So, how to sex up karnemelk, then? Turn it into panna cotta. Genius. Cream, sugar, vanilla pods, gelatine – et voila. Palatable karnemelk. Just to ramp up the Dutchness a notch further, I decided to serve it with stoofperen (rather solid, wintery pears) poached in jenever, black current liqueur, jeneverbessen (juniper berries), cinnamon and lemon. After an hour or so, I took the pears out and reduced the cooking liquor down to a thick syrup that worked as a kind of go-between on the plate for the panna cotta and the pears.

Once we’d more or less licked our plates clean, we drank to another five years in our adopted city. Thanks Amsterdam – you rock.

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